Once set like a dark jewel in a grim and gritty coal mining district, modern Durham is a stunning city full of vibrant life.
Durham’s history goes back to Roman times. The Romans didn’t manage to get this far north until three decades after they first arrived in England during AD43. The hated, feared and brutal invaders eventually built a settlement called Dunholm on an easy-to-defend peninsula on a bend in the River Wear, south of the mighty Hadrian’s Wall, and that’s where the city stands to this day.
The cathedral started life in 1053 and took decades to build. It overlooks the city from above, a massive chunk of a building. While York Minster is pale, fluted and highly decorated, the outside of Durham cathedral is comparatively stern, squat, and typically Norman. In fact it’s the biggest and best example of Norman architecture in England. Behind it stands the castle, an older Norman fortress where the prince-bishops of Durham once lived. No wonder this is a UNESCO World heritage site.
If you approach the city by train from the south you’re in for a treat, with superb urban and river views as you cross the railway viaduct. The wider landscapes around the city are equally breathtaking, as is the spectacular coastline. And shopping in Durham is a treat, as are the city’s cool attractions. Being a university town there’s lots of lovely, lively night life to tap into. Read on to find out where Durham day tours could take you.
Durham cathedral itself – Powerful ancient magic
Take a daily guided tour around Durham cathedral, the castle, and the ancient part of the city that encircles them to get an intimate feel for the heart of this unique place. The north westerly tower is open to the public, a heck of a climb but well worth it for a close look at the roof, stonework, and extraordinary views. It isn’t for the faint-hearted but if you have a love of great buildings you’ll appreciate how it feels to have all those crushing tons of rock, piled up one after the other, beneath you. This building is VAST, and its power thrums uncannily. Fanciful? Maybe, but ancient Durham seen in the raw like this can do strange things to the imagination!
Museum fiend? Do this
Durham University’s Oriental Museum is a lush place to explore, totally devoted to the art and archaeology of the great cultures of Northern Africa and Asia. The effect is exciting, unusual and exotic. Then there’s Beamish, the country’s biggest open air museum, showcasing life in the tough industrial north east through the ages, complete with costumed actors.
Bowes museum, nestled deep in the Durham Dales with wonderful views, is full of curiosities, collections and quirky treasures including a working silver diorama of a life size swan, all gathered by the building’s creator John Bowes and his French wife Joséphine Benoîte Coffin-Chevallier. The cafe in this classic French-style stately pile is a treat.
Retail therapy in Durham’s personality-filled streets
Right in the heart of the city, near the city’s ancient marketplace, there’s Prince Bishop Shopping Centre, home to all the usual high street suspects along with some nice independent retailers. The Riverwalk development takes advantage of the scenic riverbank and views across the city to the castle, with more high street shops, independent boutique stores, lots of good cafés and a cinema.
For a heavyweight shopping frenzy, head two miles out of the city centre to Arnison Shopping Park, Durham’s biggest out of town retail destination. Then there’s the Dalton Park Outlet Shopping Centre in Murton, offering shopaholics more than 70 desirable outlets packed with bargains.
Think York’s Shambles and you get Durham’s Silver Street, an ancient place that’s been sadly neglected for years but is hopefully on the up. Right in the heart of Durham and packed with character, this is one of the oldest thoroughfares in the ancient city, going back to medieval times. Hopefully things are picking up there. It’s well worth a look, just in case.
If you’re in the city during a full moon you’ll enjoy the Full Moon Street Food Market, a once-a-month warm weather treat for excellent global street food, craft beers, live music and oodles of local colour.
Hungry in Durham? Try these
Citron Vert is heavenly for Sunday roasts, classic French cuisine, beautiful sandwiches, luxury baked goods and more. A particularly good riverside eatery, Cellar Door takes you deep underground to eat in a cellar dating back to the 1200s. If that’s too spooky for you, there’s a light and airy upstairs area as well. Think high-end European food blended with Brit classics. Our third recommendation is the uber-stylish Flat White Kitchen, a labyrinth of a restaurant on five levels including a secret garden, home to exceptional British-Asian food.
Chill out somewhere leafy and green
Right in the heart of the city centre and close to the train station, Wharton Park is a cool and green space to relax along with the locals. There’s a heritage centre, café, play area, footpaths and an amphitheatre where they host family fun, plays and musical acts. Then there’s Old Durham Gardens, over 350 years old with lovely green spaces to stroll. Arranged on two levels, it has a pretty walled garden and terrace on one level with more gardens below.
Durham University’s Palace Green, in between Durham Cathedral and the castle, is a nice place to watch the world go by, as are Durham University Botanic Gardens, a full 10 hectares of loveliness to wander in, located to the south of the city centre. There’s a winter garden, wildflower meadow and woodland garden to explore along with a visitor centre and cafe.
If you fancy a spot of leisurely river life you can hire a rowing boat from Browns, who have been doing it since the 1900s. Your dog is welcome to join you on board. Plus there’s the Prince Bishop Cruiser for less energy-intensive river fun, a fabulous way to see the city unfold as you chug along in the attractive vintage vessel.
Exploring the landscapes around Durham city
Leave Durham behind and get out into the super-fresh north eastern air. Discover the spectacular North Pennines, an Area of Outstanding Beauty where the light pollution is low enough for brilliant night time views of space and the stars. The landscapes here are wild, wild, wild. Dizzyingly steep scree-covered slopes, deep and narrow valleys lined with purple heathers, vast skies and unpredictable weather are the name of the game, making it dangerously beautiful. You can explore hidden gems in the shape of the many interesting little market towns and remote villages in the Durham Dales, including Middleton-in Teesdale, Aukside, Copthill, Dipton and many more.
Mind… blown – Visit County Durham’s awesome Heritage Coast
The coast is equally dramatic, with visual thrills to blow your mind all the way from Sunderland to Hartlepool. Fairly named the Durham Heritage Coast, this is one of the most impressive sections of coastline in England. Discover it the slow way on foot along the coastal path alongside shallow bays, and up and down the towering headlands in the area’s famed Magnesian Limestone. Rare plants and wildlife are yours along this particularly splendid part of the King Charles III England Coast Path, the country’s longest national trail.
Sea glass is easily found on the beaches towards Sunderland, where great glass factories used to spew out waste glass into the sea. Nowadays mostly worn down to sand, you’ll still pick up the occasional smooth slice of watery green, blue, clear, red or brown glass. Seaham Hall beach is the best place of all for old sea glass. It’s also home to one of the few remaining pre-Viking churches in England.
More natural delights around the city include scenic Castle Eden Dene, a National Nature Reserve extending to 550 acres of natural woodland containing 12 miles of walking paths. You can spot as many as 450 plants and wild flowers, many only found in this curious kind of pre-medieval woodland.
Traces of mining around Durham
Mining in this area has ancient roots, dating to Roman times but widespread from Medieval times. In the 1700s it expanded dramatically as the industrial revolution deepened, and quickly became large-scale. Durham played a vital role in coal mining until the 1980s, and a visit to Spennymoor Town Hall takes you to a museum dedicated to the region’s miners.
Two displays at Durham Mining Museum showcase mining artefacts and machine models, the third is a simulated underground coalface and tunnel with a life-sized model pit pony, along with loads of information. The whole thing commemorates the 24,000 men, women and children who’ve died in mining and related accidents in the north since the year 1293.
Inspired to discover Durham day tours?
Take a look at the Durham Day Tours we recommend and fall in love with this amazing city.
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